Shawna's Shy Dog Tips

While I do not claim to be an expert or formally trained in handling animals, I have had some success in working with Siberian Huskies which have needed help overcoming the fear of people. I foster dogs for East Tennessee Sleddog Rescue, and I hope that I will  still be lucky enough to see dogs turn around! I really believe that the dog does most of the work, as each one has wanted to be part of my family, and each one worked hard to over come their fear of people. They just needed extra encouragement so that they learn that they can be a "family member."

I do various things, most with good reason, to help my timid fosters come out of their shells. The following is just "what worked for me."  Every dog is different, and remember that you are working on the dog's time-table. Some dogs are able to adjust quicker, while some are slow to come around. Don't give up, especially if the dog is flirting with you.  You'll know the dog that needs more time when you see her. She'll cry out when you pet other dogs. She'll wag her tail and cry out with joy when you come home from work. She'll try to play with you from 8 feet back, and she'll throw a fit at the back door when the other dogs are inside with you. She'll bark wildly when the other dogs come up to get a treat from your hand, because she just can't make herself come up to you to get her "cookie."

First remember your eyes have it! In the animal world a threat looks hard at you and looks you in the eye. So force yourself not to look the timid dog in the eyes or even in the face. Look down and use your peripheral vision  see what the dog is doing.

Remember your size also. You are much bigger than the shy project. Think about how you can reduce the threat of your size. I suggest that you sit and kneel as much as possible, and it is better if you are sitting on the ground. I have even crawled around on all fours, in hopes that it might help.

We have arms with hands that might have been used to hurt, and the past abuse might have been what caused the fear. You can start my keeping your back to her as you sit on the ground, and keep your hands to your self. It is tempting to want to pet her when she comes near, but don't! Just sit with your eyes closed. Let the dog come up and smell you. If you get a quick lick on the face, remember not to yell out! Consider this a successful encounter and a step in the right direction!  

Be consistent. Don't make erratic movements. Move slowly and deliberately. Think slow motion! Don't make a lot of sounds when you move. (Enough loud noises happen on accident, and this will in it's own way help to educate a shy boy that noises are not anything to be afraid of.)

Again, put your back to the dog. When you are walking around, it might help an extremely frightful pup if you walk around backwards at first. You are less of a threat if you don't face him, because your eyes and hands are not were they can "get" him. While this is awkward, it makes sense, and it really helped my fosters.

Find out what motivates the project canine. Some dogs are food motivated, while others are motivated by going for a walk. What ever you can find that takes the dog's mind off of you and on to the motivator. Jealousy can be a good thing. Some dogs will be motivated to come closer to you when they see other dogs being petted, loved on or getting treats.

Use other dogs! Canines can model behavior. Timid dogs will look to see other dogs' behavior. Timid dogs will watch other dogs to know when they are safe. When the other dogs are not showing signs of fear around people, this will help the shy ones. (This may not work with a dog that was mistreated by people, and was never around other dogs. The dog coming from this back ground may have to deal with the people fear and a fear of other dogs. It might be overwhelming to such a dog to do both things at the same time. Let the dog set the pace for socialization, and if it appears that a timid dog is overwhelmed back off some.)

Lay belly up on the floor when the fearful one is near.  (I don't recommend that you do this with any dog that is aggressive or that you fear. I know this sounds weird, but if you are grasping for straws, it is worth a try. Dogs who are subordinate will go belly up for the dominate dog.

Lay on your back on the floor- hands to your side with your eyes closed. Let the shy dog come up and smell around you. Don't move and don't be surprised if you get a lick on the face.  Such a kiss means that he sees you as dominate and you are still boss, despite your subordinate position.

Feeding time is a good thing. You can put the food bowl in your lap, as you sit on the floor with your eyes closed and hands behind your back. This will make a timid dog come very near you. Try sitting on the ground with treats in your hands which are behind your back. The shy one might come up to take a treat!

Work up to petting the dog. Kneel down. Take a treat and put it in the palm of your left hand. Put your left hand on the right arm's forearm. When the timid one goes in for the treat, your right hand will be near her neck/chin. A fearful dog might never take a treat this way if you initially try to pet him. Work up, and give many many treats this way before you try to pet. Also remember to pet from the side of the head. Most of us don't like to have our heads patted. Dogs included!!!

Remember working with a fearful dog takes time. You are not on your time table, but rather the dog dictates how fast things progress. Be patient. Force contact some days but ignore the next. It is a dance between you and the dog. You encourage everyday, but you can't force the change everyday. Sure you'll need to push sometimes, but don't go over board. Some things you try will not be successful, and you might feel like you have ruined all the past progress. Don't get down! Find someone who understands so that they can encourage you.

Good luck. If you have anything that a shy dog teaches you and you want to share, please email me!

updated 07/23/03